Katarina Lange, Head Sommelier
Grenache
Being Winter, but having some great days of sunshine, I enjoy the versatile varietal of Grenache.
Australian Grenache can be somewhat of a minefield as there is no distinct style, nor any set way of making it. Hence, it can range from fresh and fruity examples which can even work as chilled reds to serious and brooding wines with lots of complexity akin to a Barolo. McLaren Vale and the Barossa make excellent examples of the varietal, with my favourite producers being Reed Wines and Clarendon Hills. South Australia has some of the oldest bush vine Grenache plantings in the world, producing wines of excellent depth and concentration.
The 2023 Reed Alexia Grenache is my go-to lunchtime drop as it is lithe and elegant with a complex mineral profile featuring velvety tannins and earthy notes. The wine is impressive, albeit supple all at once thanks to the sandy soils on which the grapes are grown. Dried rose petals and volcanic ash give a compelling aroma profile with gunflint, black cherries and macerated strawberries. Juicy and balanced acidity give an impression of a medium-bodied wine, suitable for lighter meat dishes or pastas.
My top pick for a cold and dark Winter night is the 2015 Clarendon Hills Onkaparinga Grenache. This wine is sourced from 75 year old bush vines and only 20 barrels were made. Being aged for 18 months in French oak, the 2015 Clarendon Hills Onkaparinga Grenache has notes of nutmeg, cinnamon and clove with richly concentrated black fruits and just-sufficient acidity to cleanse the palate. The tannins are serious and muscular, and the ironstone gives a curious sanguine streak on the finish. Excellent with charred beef or roasted lamb.
Should a more predictable and traditional style be desired, there are an abundance of earthy and savoury examples from the Old World, covering approachable and very affordable Cotes du Rhone wines to premium Chateauneuf du Papes. The typical sandstone minerality evident on the nose is (to me) a hallmark of these wines. Dried, crushed herbs mingle with a juicy black cherry and blackberry core of fruit. My top pick from this region is the 2021 Clos Saouma INOPIA Cotes du Rhone Rouge. Rich, dark-fruited and with a smoky aroma, this drinks more like a Chateauneuf du Pape than a Cotes du Rhone and at a very affordable price.
